Reflections on Civil Rights History in the South:
The Intersections of Identity, Place, Gender, and Race in a Contemporary Framework
The Power of Place
by Trisha Walker
Reading history books can only present you with so much information – they can tell a story, but often times connections between history and the present are lost when information is presented on page after printed page. Physically being present at a place where history transpired is a completely different learning experience. As I discovered repeatedly on our civil rights journey through the South, places that memorialize events or places where influential events happened have power. The power of a place can structure our thoughts, emotions, and actions, and it merges the past and present until you can almost feel what the people who lived before you felt.
On our class’ civil rights journey, I repeatedly felt a theme emerging: oppression through violence. Americans fear what they do not know and understand, and differences in skin color or ancestry start to matter when the people in power fear you. This theme can be demonstrated when looking at America’s violent suppression and killing of Native Americans when the West was being settled, the enslavement and estrangement of Africans to the point of lawfully declaring they are not human, and the killing of people who transgressed racial boundaries, like Martin Luther King Jr., Emmett Till, and Medgar Evers. These violent acts of the past can still be felt today when visiting the places where they were carried out, and this is an experience that no history book can ever replicate.
We started off our civil rights journey in St. Louis, Missouri, at the St. Louis Gateway Arch and the Dred Scott courthouse. Although I had been to the Arch before, it was still startling to see the glistening 630-foot-tall monument standing by the Mississippi River. The Arch was designed through a competition to memorialize the nation's Westward Expansion (gatewayarch.com). Although the Arch was very beautiful, Dr. Cooley mentioned that, in a way, it was memorializing America's conquering of the
West and those that lived there. As we know in Mankato, Minnesota, where the Dakota Conflict reached its end when 38 Dakota warriors were hanged for crimes against civilians, it can be difficult to remember our grim histories (usdakotawar.org). Our nation’s Westward Expansion resulted in the deaths of countless Native Americans, the destruction of traditions, and the expulsion of people from their homelands. In a way, this is very similar to how white Americans built the national economy through the utilization of African slave labor. Yet the memorial glorifies the might and legacy of those such as Thomas Jefferson, Lewis and Clark, and Western settlers while leaving out some of the darker history of Westward Expansion. It was daunting standing there in the memorial’s shadow of that legacy.
The St. Louis Arch sits between the Mississippi river and the old St. Louis courthouse. The courthouse gains its historical significance with its association with the Dred Scott case – one of the most significant Supreme Court cases in American history. Dred Scott was an African American slave who sued his master for his and his family’s freedom in 1847 on the account that he had lived in free territories for almost nine years and remained enslaved.
The theme of suppressing black citizenship continued in the next chapter of our civil rights journey in Memphis, Tennessee at the National Civil Rights Museum and Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. King was in Memphis at the time to encourage sanitation workers on strike. Earlier that year, two sanitation workers had been crushed to death by a malfunctioning waste removal truck. The tension was building between the low-income black workers, who wanted decent working conditions, and the city. On April 3, 1968, King gave his “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop” speech to encourage the striking sanitation workers to remain peaceful. He told them: “Like anybody, I would like to live a long life. Longevity has its place. But I'm not concerned about that now. I just want to do God's will. And He's allowed me to go up to the mountain. And I've looked over. And I've seen the Promised Land. I may not get there with you. But I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised Land!” The next day, April 4th, James Earl Ray murdered King as he stood on his room’s balcony at the Lorraine Motel.


Dr. Cooley explained to us while we were standing in the courthouse that this case happened in Missouri for a reason. Missouri was the northernmost slave state, and slaves continually crossed the border between slavery and freedom. Previously, the Missouri courts had supported the doctrine of “once free, always free” (nps.gov). After much conflict, the Dred Scott case eventually made it to the Supreme Court as Dred Scott v. Sanford ten years later in 1857. “The Supreme Court ruled that Americans of African decent, whether free or slave, were not American citizens, and could not sue in federal court. The Court also ruled that Congress lacked power to ban slavery in the U.S. territories. Finally, the Court declared that the rights of slave owners were constitutional protected by the Fifth Amendment because slaves were categorized as property” (pbs.org). This decision by the Supreme Court upheld the enslavement of blacks and allowed the horrors that grieved them to continue propelling the American economy. Dred Scott was eventually freed in the courthouse after his master decided to free him due to the publicity the case received. Being in the courtroom where Dred Scott heard he was freed after the Supreme Court had told him “no” was a profound way to start off our civil rights journey.
Figure 1. St. Louis Gateway Arch, St. Louis, Missouri
Figure 2. Courtroom where Dred Scott was freed, St. Louis Courthouse, St. Louis, Missouri

Figure 3. National Civil Rights Museum and the Lorraine Motel, Memphis, Tennessee
The first thing you see when walking up to the National Civil Rights Museum is the balcony where King was assassinated. Inside the doors, the first exhibit displays the photographs of Ernest C. Withers on the African American community spanning the decades of the 1940-1970’s; these images give insight into everyday struggles and triumphs of a time not too long ago, and they really set the mood for the rest of the museum. The rest of the museum had exhibits that focused on the beginnings of slavery, the sit-in movement, the bus boycotts, and the Black Power movement. Throughout the museum, there were lots of very realistic statues. I felt like this brought the museum to life and connected the visitors to the lives of the people who had struggled for civil rights.
The museum was essentially one long exhibit that snaked back and forth on itself while slowly inclining in a hardly noticeable way until the third floor, where Martin Luther King Jr.’s room was located. At the end, in his room, it was chilling to see the spot where such an inspirational person had died for his cause. While viewing his hotel room, there was a quote from Reverend Martin Luther King Sr., his father, that read “We had waited, agonizing through the nights and days
without sleep, startled by nearly any sound, unable to eat, simply staring at our meals. Suddenly, in a few seconds of radio time it was over. My first son, whose birth had brought me so much joy that I jumped up in a hall outside the room where he was born and touched the ceiling – the child, the scholar, the preacher, the boy singing and smiling, the son – all of it was gone.” Reading so close to where he died humanized Martin Luther King Jr. in a way that almost nothing else could for me. This quote was purely a father grieving for his child, not the revolutionary movement leader that I had always read about in history books.
After we left Memphis, our civil rights journey took us into Mississippi. Dr. Robert “Bob” Moses, organizer of the 1964 Mississippi voter registration campaign called Freedom Summer, reportedly said “When you’re in Mississippi, the rest of America doesn’t seem real. And when you’re in the rest of America, Mississippi doesn’t seem real.” This quote stuck in my head throughout our time in Mississippi, for even today, almost fifty years after Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated, Mississippi feels like it is a place separate from the United States.
Roy Bryant, Carolyn’s husband, and J. W. Milam, his half brother, kidnapped Till from his bed; the men brutally beat him and finally disposed of his body into the Tallahatchie River, where it was recovered three days later.
The trial for Emmett Till’s murder took place at the Sumner, Mississippi courthouse. It was a short trial. The jury deliberated for a mere hour and decided to acquit the men, causing widespread outrage at the racial flaws in the American justice system. Stephen Whitfield, author of A Death in the Delta: The Story of Emmett Till, described how Till’s murder and trial affected those that lived in the Mississippi, “the viciousness of the murder of Emmett Till spurred efforts to accelerate the tempo of civil rights advances for Southern blacks. The case therefore deserves analysis for its function in promoting the liquidation of legally enforced racial segregation after the 1950s. Scattered evidence also indicates the impact that both the murder of Till and the acquittal of the defendants exerted upon the Southern Negroes, some of whom matured into activists in the struggle against Southern racism in the 1960s.”
Today, the grocery store where Emmett Till allegedly wolf whistled at Carolyn Bryant stands in a state of complete disrepair. The wood rots, the windows are shattered, and the entire structure looks like it could collapse on itself. The area around it was quiet on the day we visited, with only the occasional car driving by and a distant whistle of a train. It probably has not changed much in the past sixty years, and you could never guess that this was the location where a little boy would commit a “crime” worthy of his murder.
In contrast, the courthouse in Sumner has attempted to make progress from its history. We met with Patrick Weems, Dr. Cooley’s former student and the director of the Emmett Till Interpretive Center that sits across from the courthouse. Inside the courthouse, the courtroom has been restored to the way it appeared in the 1950s to remind people not to repeat the mistakes of the past. Outside, on opposite corners, sit two monuments that express the different historical periods of the area. One of the monuments is a memorial to the Confederate soldiers who died in the Civil War, and the other is a green Mississippi historical marker that describes the courthouse’s connection with the Emmett Till case. Although at first the Emmett Till marker sparked some controversy amongst the locals when it was dedicated, Weems said that after some thought and negotiation they have mostly accepted its place next to the courthouse. Hopefully with time the rest of Mississippi can begin to accept its own violent past.
The final stage of our civil rights journey brought us to Jackson, Mississippi. In Jackson, we visited Jackson State and Tougaloo College, the Mississippi Museum of Art, and the sign marker for Anne Moody’s Woolworth’s sit-in. All
Megar Evers returned to the United States from fighting in World War II and found that nothing had changed. “Despite fighting for his country as part of the Battle of Normandy,” the NAACP website notes, “Evers soon found that his skin color gave him no freedom when he and five friends were forced away at gunpoint from voting in a local election.” This discrimination caused Evers and many other black veterans to join the Civil Rights Movement in America.
When visiting his house, we could see the great lengths Evers and his wife Myrlie strived for to protect their family. Their house was the only one on the street to not have a front door. Their door was placed right next to the garage overhang, so his children could go directly from the car into the house. The children’s room was in the back corner of the house, and their beds were on the floor so that any bullets shot into the window would not hit them when they were sleeping. Medgar and Myrlie Evers’s bed was also placed on the floor to avoid possible attacks through the window.
On the day of his murder, June 12, 1963, Evers had been working late with the NAACP. After arriving home, he got out of his car while carrying t-shirts that said “Jim Crow Must Go” and was shot in the back. Today, you can still see the path the bullet took after it passed through his body. The bullet went through the front window, through the wall that separated their kitchen and living room, ricocheted off the refrigerator, hit a toaster oven, and then lodged itself in a watermelon sitting on their kitchen counter. A neighbor took Evers to the hospital, but he soon died. We stood where his blood stains the concrete outside of his home – I do not believe there is a more powerful mark of the violence and oppression that African Americans faced than these blood stains that his wife tried, and failed, to scrub away.
Before our class had traveled to the South, I had believed that I had a good understanding of civil rights history. Visiting the places where people, who were just as alive as I am today, struggled for basic human rights has made me completely rethink my views on the Civil Rights Movement. The glorified version that was presented to me in history books does not even skim the surface of the countless moments of fear and hope that the people felt. These particular sites - in St. Louis, Memphis, and Jackson – are marked forever with the literal and figurative blood of our nation’s civil rights warriors.

We first toured the Mississippi Delta, which is composed of the state’s northwestern-most counties and which the historian James C. Cobb called “the most Southern place on Earth” in his book by that name. Back in the mid-1900s, racial tensions were escalating considerably between whites and blacks when they spilled over in the summer of 1955. Emmett Till, a 14-year-old African American boy from Chicago, wanted to visit his family in Money, Mississippi for the summer. Till’s mother was initially against it, but finally agreed to allow her son to take the trip after warning him against the harsh racial codes of the South. Till had only been in Mississippi for a few days when he and his cousins went to Bryant’s Grocery, where Till allegedly wolf whistled at Carolyn Bryant, the white woman running the store. A few days later,
Figure 4. Bryant’s Grocery Store, Money, Mississippi

of these places gave us more contexts in which to place our new knowledge about the Civil Rights Movement. However, none of these places influenced me quite as much as visiting the Medgar Evers House.

In 1954, Evers became the first NAACP field officer in Mississippi. He moved to Jackson, and was highly influential in helping desegregate the University of Mississippi. Again, according to the NAACP website, “In the weeks leading up to his death, Evers found himself the target of a number of threats. His public investigations into the murder of Emmett Till and his vocal support of Clyde Kennard left him vulnerable to attack. On May 28, 1963, a Molotov cocktail was thrown into the carport of his home, and five days before his death, he was nearly run down by a car after he emerged from the Jackson NAACP office.”
Figure 6, Medgar Evers House, Jackson, Mississippi
Figure 5. Sumner Courthouse, Sumner, Mississippi